La Désirade in 5 Highlights: Beaches, Trails, and a Sea-Edge Cemetery
Updated: Oct 6
Small island, big character. Here are five standout experiences that capture La Désirade’s atmosphere.
1) Fifi Beach
Clear water, golden sand, and an easy swim—ideal for a relaxed morning.
2) Grande Montagne viewpoints
A hike that rewards you with sweeping views over the island and the Caribbean.
The ascent is exposed with little shade — bring enough water and pack light. A double-wall bamboo vacuum bottle keeps water cool all the way to the summit.
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3) The marine cemetery
A striking place at the ocean’s edge, reflecting the island’s maritime history and close-knit community.
4) Pointe Doublé lighthouse
A classic landmark and a great spot for photos—especially late afternoon.
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5) The Desert Botanical Garden
A surprising collection of dry-climate plants and rare species—perfect if you love nature beyond the beach.
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Useful resources
Official reference: Guadeloupe Islands Tourism Board
The oldest island in the Lesser Antilles
La Désirade holds the distinction of being the oldest island in the Lesser Antilles geologically — its limestone plateau predates the volcanic activity that formed most of its neighbors. Christopher Columbus spotted it on November 2, 1493, on his second voyage, and named it 'La Désirée' (the desired one) reflecting his crew's relief after a long Atlantic crossing. The name stuck, softening over time to La Désirade. The island covers about 22 square kilometers and is home to roughly 1,700 people, with Beauséjour as the main settlement. Its arid, windswept character is immediately striking: unlike the lush green hills of Basse-Terre, La Désirade is flat and dry, dominated by cactus scrub, wind-bent trees, and the constant presence of the open Atlantic on its eastern shore.
The island's history carries weight. Until 1952, La Désirade housed one of the oldest leper colonies in the French Caribbean, established in 1728. The marine cemetery near Beauséjour — one of La Désirade's five must-see highlights — holds the graves of the island's earliest French settlers alongside those of fishermen and sailors. Set directly at the water's edge with the sea visible between the headstones, it is unlike any cemetery most visitors will have encountered. The Desert Botanical Garden, awarded the prestigious 'Jardin Remarquable' label in 2024, is another unexpected treasure: a curated collection of dry-climate plants including the striking melocactus, thriving in soil that looks incapable of supporting anything at all.
Getting to La Désirade and how to get around
The Comadile ferry connects Saint-François on Grande-Terre's east coast to La Désirade in about 45 minutes, with two daily crossings Monday through Sunday. The round-trip costs approximately €40 for adults. On the island, rent a bicycle, scooter, or car from one of the small outfits near the pier — the island's single main road runs along the south coast and is perfectly manageable by bike for those who enjoy a slower pace. Fifi Beach, the Grande Montagne trail, the lighthouse, the botanical garden, and the marine cemetery are all reachable in a full day trip, though staying overnight lets the island's unhurried character really come through.
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